Day 2 – 27th April

I wake to an old man walking his dog shaking a stick at me. I assume he’s telling me I can’t put my tent here. I play the stupid tourist card and smile, he doesn’t smile back.

As I make a quick coffee one of the greatest technological advances in modern history happens. I’m looking at my bag o sugar, the can of powdered milk and jar of coffee. That stuff takes up a lot of room plus the sugar bag is already starting split and I keep finding ants in my bag. I have my coffee the same way every time right?! Now try to keep up with me here, what if I combine the three into some super instant coffee mix! As I combined the coffee, sugar and milk (my ideal mix ratio is 50:30:20) into the SAME JAR I feel the earth silence at the gravity of what was occurring. You probably don’t care but I was stoked and gave myself a super pat on the back. Ego plus 10 points.

I get a lot of various small trips including a mother and son and dog ( I sit in the back with the dog and scratch him behind the ears but then he gets a boner which is disgusting and heaps awkward.), a few farmers ( one who has a massive birth mark on his face, I try not to stare but he catches me a couple of times) and a sales man who drops me in Dieppe. The road to Fecampe is useless, it deviates all different ways and I don’t have any markers for my white board. Most of the cars look like local traffic any way. A bit disappointed with myself I spend 2 euro (over a day’s budget on this trip) for the bus.

On the bus I chat to a friendly guy who has given up his job to spend his days sailing! He has the same stupid smile and energy in his eye’s I imagine I have. He gives me the door code to the Pier toilets in Fecamp so I can get a shower. He also advises me that it’s a warm place to sleep if worst comes to worst, but after an incident a few years back I will never again think of a toilet as good place to sleep ( while typing that I realised that this would occur to most people while I had to learn the hard way). This is not something I particularly want to share but...

I was passing through Childers, Queensland on my way to Munduberra to pick some oranges. Looking for a spot to put my tent but its dark and I’m tired. I spot a park, maybe somewhere to hide my tent? Nope. Consider sleeping under the picnic table. No the snakes and spiders up here are ruthless. Then I spot the disabled toilets. Good space, wind protection and a lock on the door. What a great idea I think. It all goes well until I wake with the feeling that some ones watching me. I turn over and see a man looking at me through the gap in the bottom the door. I nearly poo. He then tells me that I’m a good looking boy and asks if I would like some company?

‘No’ Is all I can think to say

But he persists and as I start to wake up, I get pissed off. I have no problem with gays but fuck off means fuck off. Being an avid camper, I had a little hatchet in my back pack. I think the situation through. I’m pretty much a pacifist but he doesn’t know that plus he’s got me in a pretty horrible situation and words aren’t working. Time for some scare tactics. I put on a damn good crazy man act, which involves me kicking open the door and running at him screaming with the hatchet held up high. He leaves quite rapidly. But still I don’t sleep for the rest of the night.

Where were we? That’s right Fecamp. As I get off the bus, the driver asks where I’m from. We get chatting, I show him on the map the way I’m headed and he tells me the bus garage is another 10km further in the direction I’m headed.

The bus driver buys me both a coffee without asking. Along my way to Santiago I will often find this kind generosity. It fills me with guilt and makes me feel like a scab. Is this a healthy reaction or something misguided that has been programmed into me? I still can’t decide. I set some rules, always decline the first offer to make sure they’re not just being polite. Don’t be greedy and give as much back as possible. The guilt slowly diminishes and is replaced by a heart warming amazement at the generosity and kindness of strangers. Diminishes but never disappears.

He drops me off and I have no idea where I am so I consult my map and see that there a place called Doudeville!! Ok so the spellings not the same and it’s completely in the wrong direction but still a detour is definitely required to pay respects to the dude of ville’s.

No ones going to Dudeville and its getting dark. Moral minus 3 points. It’s about a 23k hike, give up or start walking? It’s a nice night and I have plenty of energy and The Big Lebowski rocked so I start walking. I cross fields and fences. I walk through a knee high crop my legs start to tingle. As it get worse I wonder if maybe these crops are sprayed with something that is not meant to be on my skin? The answer is most definitely a yes.

Hours later, my mind and body practically asleep (except for the burning legs) I stumbled up to a sign that reads ‘Doudeville’. I’m relieved more than anything, but it’s not the event I thought it would be. I wish there was someone with me to share this, a high five would be perfect. I remember something Jason McCandless aka Alexander Supertramp wrote:

‘Happiness is only real when shared’

I don’t feel that happiness is only real when shared but it certainly enhances it in some situations. This will be something my mind often chews while walking the Camino. The thought that Jason is with me at least in spirit puts a smile on my face.

Not sad but deflated I put my tent behind some trees, to tired to eat I sleep instantly.

To many hours= 132km This might take while.